Of Blood and Beauty

The Evergreen State College

Page 5 of 27

Kultur-Not the Dance Dance Revolution Museum

Kultur-Not the Dance Dance Revolution Museum

The DDR Museum, to my disappointment, but not to my surprise, did not consist of arcade games and dance moves, but instead focused on the lifestyles and cultures of people living in East Germany after World War 2. I have heard much about the harsh conditions that sparked open riots, which were violently surpressed., but never had I seen so in depth a look at how people lived I this part of the world, completely walled off from everyone else. Everything was detailed here, from the traditional trabak cars, built for two, to the nude beaches which miraculously thrived while under the Soviet supervision. Yes you heard that last part right. Nude beaches were common in East Germany. Which is especially surprising given the Soviet’s strong stance against the influence of radical west cultural ideals. Nude beaches were definitely not considered traditional.

Kultur-Not the Dance Dance Revolution Museum

The anti western movement was on full display here in the museum. I fact, come to mention it, so far, while I’ve been in Germany, anything at all having to do with either the wall or East Germany division, has always been spun to have the westerners be portrayed as the good guys or the heroes with the right ideals, while the east, communists, Russians and so on, are depicted as evil. I am aware that building a wall was definitely extreme, but it is incorrect to assume that this whole side of the wall was hidden in a shadow. Here, though, most likely to accommodate the constant influx of American tourists, the west is victorious and claims the right to portray the east as less than ideal. The room with the interrogator was a great example of this. Yes there were prisoners taken, yes they were mistreated, but when is this not the case in any radical social movement? The American Government has claimed responsibility for torturing prisoners at Guantanamo, yet we will probably never hear from their perspectives. This may be an extreme point, but it is one of the best examples that I can really think of.

Kultur-Not the Dance Dance Revolution Museum

Other examples of culture on display were the musical movements, the prevalence of rock and roll surely did its part to disrupt the soviets vice grip on Berlin. While people were taught and raised to do the specific waltz, which was clean and fluid, westerners when wild, let their hair grow out and headbanger their brains out. Maybe that wasn’t this time period quite yet, but you get the point.

Hamburger in Hamburg

I have reached my first destination of my wanderwochen, Hamburg! The second largest city in Germany certainly has a lot to offer, and that is clear after only being here for a couple hours. My hostel happens to be only a block away from the bus station I arrived at, so I was able to get situated quickly and meet my hostel roommates. There are a total of eight of us, 7 were present when I arrived, and 5 of us went to go get something to eat together and my request and at the recommendation of the other two. These guys said they had, only an hour or so earlier, eaten hamburgers that were really good at a place nearby. Burgerlich it was called. I hesitated to believe them, knowing full well the reputation that burgers have in Germany. But I thought, if any where in Germany was going to have good hamburgers, it would be the place with its name in the food. They put the Hamburg in hamburger.

Hamburger in Hamburg

Caspian, Ira, Colton, Shelby and I walked through the heart of downtown Hamburg for a couple blocks to get to our destination, when we got there, we were in for a surprise. At this restaurant, all of the ordering was done through tablets that popped up from the table in some crazy new age fashion. It was wonderfully convenient and a real treat. As a bonus the burgers were actually amazing. Expensive and small portions, but they didn’t spare in the taste. It was fantastic. Because it was so small though, I decided that I would need something else to tide me over. Ira told me that there were many places to get Doner down the street next to our hostel. So sure, enough, when we got back, I decided to wander down the street to take in some Hamburg and eat some chow.

Hamburger in Hamburg

Berlin has spoiled me. One of the first things I have come to realize about Hamburg, and I’m sure this will be the same for a lot of places in Germany, food is much more expensive here. For example, in Berlin, I have found Doner for as cheap as 2.60. However the average is no more than 3.00. Here in Hamburg, at least down is street, all of the Doner places cost 4.50!?!? I wasn’t about that and decided to keep walking further to get a better deal. My search was a success as I found Haji Baba on the corner, next to a wonder World of Sex store, (sorry, extra little detail maybe not needed), and Doner was 3.60, by far the cheapest I could find. Saw I got some chow and headed back to the hostel. Now I’m doing work that needs to finally get done, so I can prepare for a fun day of more Hamburg tomorrow. I will spend another night here tomorrow, and leave for Düsseldorf on Wednesday, today is Monday.

Prague Blague

How can one summarize Prague after spending only one weekend there? First of all let me start by saying that I have been missing Prague ever since I left. It has taken me more than a week to fully gather myself, mentally and physically after being barraged by its beauty to finally be able to put the details of mythoughtd into words to attempt to discuss the city that I will never forget.

Prague Blague

Having to survive in Berlin without knowing very much German is already quite difficult, but to survive in Prague without knowing, literally, any Czech is impossible. And thus I would not say that my time in Prague was spent surviving but rather living. Caution was thrown to the wind as we, as a class collectively, were released from the confines of a classroom and given instead as human sacrifices to the city. During our first night, after we all finished eating, we made our way back through the heart of the city on a busy Saturday night. After seeing the popular destinations in the day, I was not prepared for the lush nightlife that was thriving right when we stepped outside the door. The crowds were thick and the aroma of mischief and scandal gripped me as I struggled to keep up with the the rest of my American brethren. The city was truly alive at night. During the day it hides itself in disguise as a polite and classy city with beautiful red tiled roofs as far as the eye can see. It’s bridges seem to be from antiquity until you see a tram pass over it by the other tourists. At night, though, the lights come out. The churches are on top of their game as people thrive in their presence guided by the streetlights with old hues vibrating from them.

Prague Blague

What sets Prague apart from the rest of the continent? Why would Prague be the place to go over the more familiar destinations of Paris and London? I have never been to either of these, but I will offer my opinion. Prague has managed to maintain its old age charms while still being swept up in the tide of cultural and societal evolution. I won’t deny it, the city smells of American capitalism around every corner, the constant presence of sex shops and naked women on public news fliers attest to this. It would normally be a shame  to see a beautiful old city fall victim to this new era of civilization. However, in his case, Prague seems to own these details and make a so much a part of its culture that you feel as if they belong there and should come as no surprise. I hesitate apply a nick name that I know nothing about seeing as how I have never been there either, but I would venture to claim that Prague is the Vegas of Europe. The cit is much smaller than say Berlin, but still big and populated. Over the lack of overs infancy makes it easier to enjoy all that Prague has to offer, at least along the borders of the beautiful river that flows right through the middle of it.

Prague Blague

On our first day, we spent most of the time touring around the old, famous castle on the nearby hill that overlooks the whole city. There were lots of people, but it was by no means crowded. On that same night, I decided to go for a night run to try and claim a little more familiarity with the the city. I got lost and eventually found myself at this same cattle from earlier, the only thing was there was no one there. I mean no one. Throughout the whole surrounding neighborhood on the hill, there was nary a soul in sight. Only occasionally did I jog passed a small group of people dressed up from the medieval fair earlier in the day, who had no business otherwise to be there. This is an area of beautiful small buildings and tight alleys, cobblestone roads everywhere. I kept on trying to find a restaurant or a cafe that would be open at this hour, but there was nothing. This struck me as special in two ways. First that a whole neighborhood in such a dense city could maintain such an absence of night life. Secondly, that this absence, I believe, was due out of an old respect for the castle, church and other old traditional buildings in that area. It is no secret that Prague has become an increasingly touristy city. The locals know his and, in order to preserve the dignit of these sacred places, want to avoid having people get drunk on its premises and thus risking turning the place into a sty either through garbage or drunkenly damaging the property.

Prague Blague

Rube and Mandy take in a show: Maxim Gorki (re- and un-) does Ali: Fear Eats the Soul

Rube and Mandy take in a show: Maxim Gorki (re- and un-) does Ali: Fear Eats the Soul

v.l. Mareike Beykirch (Barbara, Hedwig), Taner Sahintürk (Ali), Sema Poyraz (Paula), TamerArslan (Fuad)

http://www.spiegel.de/kultur/gesellschaft/maxim-gorki-theater-berlin-angst-essen-seele-auf-a-974049.html

Sunday night.  Starring our friend Daniel Kahn, the romantic-tragic Fassbinder film becomes a rom-com-trag-com in the hands of the Maxim Gorki Theater troupe.  Staged and lit like a musical, making good-strange use of the rotating stage, slapstick as social commentary, the glitz and humor worked somehow to amplify Fassbinder’s story of the love between an immigrant from Morocco and a German Putzfrau 20 years his senior, and the remarkable atmosphere of gossip, everyday life, and racism in which it either lives or dies.

post of life(lessness) selfie

post of life(lessness) selfie


I’m working on my paper, revisiting This is not a Pipe by Foucault and Birth of Tragedy (Nietzsche, obviously) in order to aid the formal analysis sections of my paper. These texts will also inform my section Illusion, Truth, and Form which is one half of what I’m working on this week.

post of life(lessness) selfie

post of life(lessness) selfie


I’m working on my paper, revisiting This is not a Pipe by Foucault and Birth of Tragedy (Nietzsche, obviously) in order to aid the formal analysis sections of my paper. These texts will also inform my section Illusion, Truth, and Form which is one half of what I’m working on this week.

Prahahaha

Prahahaha

15.05.16

Vítejte v Praha

Time to start working on my project again. Baudelaire and I haven’t spoken in weeks and our reunion is long overdue. The last few times I’ve tried to speak French turned into a Frankenstein-like German-French monster, so the idea of diving headfirst into the murky waters of French poetry is a bit terrifying, but also exhilarating. I expect to be holed up in my apartment for the next three weeks, save for the occasional trip to the grocery store to buy wine and cigarettes. Maybe some food, too.

Prahahaha

Proof of Life Selfie #1

Praha – Ideal of Work Week

I arrived in Praha last night, where I’ll be staying with Kate and Gabby for two days before I move into my own place on Monday.

This is the current line up of work I will accomplish this week, beginning today:

  • Reading & Explosive passages from Ways of Seeing by John Berger – up to page 55, or more if I feel inclined
  • Three Kafka short stories, every day – should be relatively easy since their relatively small
  • One longer Kafka story each week
  • Wander around Prague; including stops to the Communism Museum and churches
  • Character research
  • Selected readings of Susan Sontag’s On Photography

Sites, Sights, und so weiter

The Palace Gardens in Prague are surreal. The city is not quite a bustling urban hub, its age and dependence on tourism are apparent everywhere, but still, stepping into the enclosed area of the gardens with its baroque fountains and hedges and casual peafowl evokes the same sort of timeless, Lewis Carol absurdity that one feels visiting Hampton Court in England. The traditional performance of Moravian music and dance that happened to be underway when we visited added the simultaneous touch of both authenticity and banal production that is coming to characterize historical locales for me. I don’t mean that in a critical or cynical way exactly, I loved the experience, but there’s something necessarily put-on about intentional cultural-historical spaces.

The Kafka museum evoked even more powerfully in me thoughts and feelings about museums (as productions, as spectacle) that I’m still trying to think through. I think the the intentions behind the two museums are pretty different. The Kinemathek Museum is probably more explicitly intending to be spectacular, as this is completely in keeping with its matter. The Kafka museum is, rightly I think, trying to avoid an exclusively informative or idolatrous presentation of an author who probably would have revolted at the very idea of a monument to himself or his work. Regardless, I struggled in both places not to feel like I was at Epcot, Disney World. Maybe Disney World would be a lot cooler if there were more rides based on “The Penal Colony”.

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