Of Blood and Beauty

The Evergreen State College

Author: Kate G. (Page 1 of 2)

Prahahaha

Prahahaha

15.05.16

Vítejte v Praha

Time to start working on my project again. Baudelaire and I haven’t spoken in weeks and our reunion is long overdue. The last few times I’ve tried to speak French turned into a Frankenstein-like German-French monster, so the idea of diving headfirst into the murky waters of French poetry is a bit terrifying, but also exhilarating. I expect to be holed up in my apartment for the next three weeks, save for the occasional trip to the grocery store to buy wine and cigarettes. Maybe some food, too.

Prahahaha

Proof of Life Selfie #1

Fragen und Antworten

28.04.2016

Honestly, how are you doing?

I’m pretending to do much better than I think I actually am. Though at this point, I’m not really sure.

Do you hate it here, or do you love it?

There are days where I think I could live in Berlin, and then other days where I think that the only place that will ever make sense to me is the United States of a-goddamn-merica, the latter of which I find to be truly disgusting and horrifying.

Are you homesick?

Incredibly so.

Are things getting hard?

A similar response to hating or loving Berlin–some days are exponentially better than any days I have experienced thus far in my young adult life, and others seem to be so difficult that I’m unsure as to whether or not I can get through them. However, my appreciation for my classmates and their similarly shared insanity grows with every passing day.

What is your temporal experience at this point? (For example: I don’t operate on dates or days of the week)

Time seems to move at an impossibly slow rate in Berlin, what feels like weeks ends up being an hour, and what feels like a lifetime has only been about a month at this point.

Are you remembering things? Can you access images and feelings and emotions at any point in this city?

What stands out the most in my memory right now are my dreams–I am very used to not remembering the majority of my dreams while at home, and the ones I do remember tend to be end-of-the-spectrum outliers. Since I have been in Europe I have been able to remember almost every piece of every dream from every night, something that makes me incredibly uncomfortable.

Are you unable to?

I wish that I was unable to remember certain dreams, especially the recurring PTSD nightmares that I have become unfortunately familiar with over the last five years of my life, and even more so upon my arrival in this bizarre continent.

Are your habits changing?

I know that I have been drinking and smoking more, but I also knew to expect this based off of my last school trip to Europe two years ago with Dark Romantics. I do think that my study habits continue to get at least minimally better, I care more and more about school every day, even with the knowledge that a loss of credit wouldn’t necessarily affect my ability to graduate this quarter, and I can at least take solace in that.

What is scaring you?

One of the things that scares me the most is my quickness to anger–I like to think of myself as a fairly level-headed person, and while I would certainly not go so far as to call myself calm, I do take at least some pride in the idea that I can maintain my composure in less than agreeable situations. In Berlin, however, my ability to rationalize diminishes everyday, and my desire to empathize with those who frustrate me ebbs and flows at a startling rate.

How do you handle being alone?

I actually quite enjoy being alone, that is every once in a while. So far on this trip I feel like I haven’t gotten quite enough alone-time, which is not to say that I haven’t been enjoying spending my time with the various people I’ve been encountering, but I also would not mind wasting a bit more time on my own bullshit without having to think of the wants and needs of others around me quite as often as I have had to. Does that sound selfish?

What could you possibly do in a strange place to truly calm down? (For example: when things get bad, I go into antique shops to assuage my anxiety)

When things get bad, I call my mom. If the time difference won’t allow for that, I spend time with one of my very best friends in the entire world, Gabby. Should location make that impossible, I am forced to quell my anxiety with deep breaths and sedentary moments of reflection, something I am still learning how to do in my ripe age of 23.

Is class stressful?

I have never loved a German class so much as I love Evita’s class at CIEE. I was truly beginning to think that there was not a single good German professor in the world outside of my beloved Frau Hommel (a professor before my time at Evergreen) and then I met Evita. She has reignited my fire in language learning and reminded me that a bad teacher makes for a bad learning experience, not a bad edification altogether. I cannot possibly express my gratitude and appreciation enough to thank Evita properly, in German or in English, but hell if I won’t try.

What kind of thoughts are you thinking? There’s usually a pattern there.

Currently I’m thinking about what excuse I can use to get out of eating dinner with my host family tonight that I haven’t used too many times before.

Do you miss anyone (it’s ok to not)?

Above all, I miss my mama.

PSYCHICCITY

Listening to Berlin

21.04.2016

For this assignment I chose the bedroom that has been designated as mine in my host family’s apartment in Charlottenburg. I chose this space very purposefully because while it is supposed to be a place that I can temporarily call my own and make into the crabby cave of my dreams, it has become a place that I feel entirely uncomfortable in and am constantly hesitant of stepping outside of my shell while here. I do not like being a long-term guest in someone else’s home, I do not enjoy feeling like a teenager who is on a perpetual curfew, and I do not relish the fact that I can’t walk around in my underwear whenever I so please. Lying on the bed I have finally started to become familiar with over the past month, I shut my eyes and opened my ears.

My ride is here–the pitch of the screeching sirens steadily rises as they beckon me nearer and nearer, then suddenly it drops down and stretches out of my ear’s reach, clueing me in that my ride home has left without me. The sound of tires rolling against the asphalt brings me back to the Boros Bunker, I wonder how worn down that tire is now… Boisterous animals corral around my window to bleat and baa in every direction until my room is so filled with sound that my head begins to ache. Wind whistles through the open window and slams the door shut with an unanticipated shock, rattling my nerves to the point where I think I need to stop for my own mental health.

PSYCHICCITY

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe + Topography of Terror

27.04.16

This was our second time walking through the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, though it was our first time going into the information center underneath the field of stones. During our first visit here the sun was out and the rest of Berlin seemed to follow suite–there were children playing hide-and-go-seek in between the pillars, groups of teens pick-nicking and drinking on the outskirts of the memorial, and sunbathers lying on top of the tomb-shaped monuments basking in deliciously rare vitamin D. Yesterday’s visit was quite different; storm clouds mirrored the mood of the group as rain attacked our notebooks and washed away our smiles. Upon first entering the information center beneath this semblance of a graveyard I was delighted to be sheltered from the less than desirable weather above, though this happiness was quick to depart and superficial at best.

Difficult, distressing, uncomfortable, painful, disheartening, raw, tormenting, harrowing, troublesome, grueling; none of these words seem to do justice to the effect created by this memorial. The vanity of language gets in the way of the actual experience, and frustrates me now more than ever. How can I even begin to try to express this shit when furiously flipping through the pages of my thesaurus results in paper cuts on my fingers before it could ever lead me to a word that actually says something? I can feel Didi-Huberman’s disappointment growing as I type out the words: I cannot begin to explain because I cannot begin to imagine.

I do not mean that I should not try to imagine, and I do not mean to take away from the validity of this memorial or the experience(s) created by it. What I do mean is that I am a firm believer of the idea that one can never fully know what one has not experienced. I can do my best to take in as much information as my own brain is capable of about the Holocaust, but I will never be able to find the “right” words to describe it, because I have led too privileged of a life to do so and/or to do so well.

Degenerate Art

14.04.2016

Das Museum Berggruen

Degenerate Art

Grande Femme Debout II (Alberto Giacometti, 1959-60)

Degenerate Art

Dora Maar with Green Fingernails (Picasso, 1936)

PSYCHICCITY

Sammlung Boros Bunker

11.04.2016

A tire that spins against a wall and deteriorates more and more with every sideward glance cast upon it, a tree that circles itself and drags its branches along the ground ad infinitum while its leaves fade to a dusty and dehydrated brown, popcorn that pops into a room filled with ten year-old kernels that will only ever be touched by Tom Hanks and will never fill the millions of empty stomachs in the world. The Sammlung Boros Bunker “plays on the ignorance of the audience” by showing us things we think we know, expecting us to question that knowledge, and then revealing that initial knowledge to be true all along. Each piece is open to any interpretation that the viewer projects onto it by leaving the titles of the works as well as the artists responsible for them in a booklet at the front desk. Without a guide there is no hope of taking away any artistic intention from the pieces, and even less hope of being able to find the exit.

Claustrophobia reaches its ultimate peaks in this bunker, whether it comes from the size of your group that you cannot walk away from, or from the omnipresent bourgeoisie that looks down its ever-lifting nose at your laughable blindness in a room filled entirely with lights. What good is art if we are immediately deemed too stupid and too ignorant to understand it? What sort of knowledge did these collectors possess that we seem to inherently lack in the 21st century? It’s something that only Tom Hanks will ever understand.

Berlin Wall Memorial Documentation Center

20.04.2016

Berlin Wall Memorial Documentation Center

Standing above the “death strip” in between the two sides of what once was the Berlin Wall, looking at the spaces where corpses were uncovered and relocated outside the cemetery walls where the original Church of Reconciliation used to stand, doing my best to take in the fierce amount of pain and suffering involved in the history of this space. The casual and light-hearted manner in which this tour took place was disconcerting–my face flushed with embarrassment as our tour guide cracked jokes about “former Nazis” and the adversity that was endured during the time of the Iron Curtain.

The ability to remove oneself from historical agony and slap a superficial band-aid over the wounds brought about by the latent totalitarianism of this world’s history shocks me, even more so when I find myself dissociating and brushing off the torment that lies before me with thoughts of how hungry or tired I am. This tour was more than a reminder of my placement in the capitalist machine I have come to call home. Even when it feels like we have left the playpen, Big Brother’s gnarled fingers loom in each of our shadows.

Das Jüdisches Museum Berlin

18.04.2016

With nothing but honesty in mind, this was by far the most boring and frustrating tour of the most interesting museum that I have yet to experience in my young adult life. While I completely understand the world’s general distaste for Americans, our tour guide’s lack of interest in the group and our ability to comprehend what was being presented to us was nothing if not disheartening. My ability to retain the information he spewed at us took a heavy hit as he compared us to high school students, and was completely shut down upon being asked if we had ever heard of Walter Benjamin.

I left the majority of the museum unexplored due to my frustrations with our guide, and yet I was still able to walk away with at least a slightly better understanding of the history we have studied throughout the past two quarters in class. I wonder how much more I will be able to absorb and appreciate when I return to this museum during my Wanderzeit, hopefully unaccompanied by one of Berlin’s most disparaging and unfavorable museum docents.

Street Art in Berlin

13.04.2016

Street Art in Berlin

As of yet this was my favorite of the various tours we have taken as a group since arriving in Berlin. Our guide, Evelyn, was an incredibly intuitive wealth of information. Her ability to point out specific tags and posters beyond the stops that were planned by our other guide, Rachel, astonished and inspired me. I could feel the connections she held with each piece she inspected and tackled in the emotion in her voice and the excitement in her face. Her anecdotes about her various experiences with some of the artists whose works we saw opened my eyes to a side of Berlin I had yet to be able to visualize on my own–running from the cops, partying at squats, and assisting different artists with major pieces were just some of the many stories told that day.

The very best part of the tour took place after the group dispersed when I was able to walk around Berlin with Evelyn and Gabby as a group of three. She told us about her experiences as a foreigner (originally from Finland) in Berlin, her encounters with various authority figures in Germany and other European countries, and the dystopia she had found in this strange city we have come to know for the past few weeks. While sitting in a park in front of one of Berlin’s many churches, Evelyn told us she had found it to be an unfortunately true cliché that Berliners seemed to have a gaping hole in their souls. Her uncannily relevant words still echo in my ears, “it’s all a spiral.”

Urban Development – Planning, Models, and Projects

06.04.2016

Admittedly my mind was not with my body in Berlin during this tour because I had just found out the night before that my mother was in the hospital in California, so the majority of my thoughts were on how much it would cost to buy a ticket back to the states in less than 24 hours as opposed to the extensive history of the city of Berlin that was being presented to me. While my brain was tethered to the streets of my hometown, I occasionally let it meander through the miniature streets of the expansive 3D model of Berlin, brushing past the identical artificial trees and windowless buildings that towered above my tiny imaginary self. The differentiation between new and old-standing buildings as white plastic and light brown wood pulled the leash around my heart even closer to Los Angeles, wondering which buildings I could even place as having been built before 2000. My internal comparison of these two metropolises that have incited such different emotions in my being has prompted daily restructures of my understanding of Berlin as a city of “becoming”.

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