Hot and muggy day, but beautiful scenery definitely helped.

It felt amazing to get back to walking today. I forgot how much I actually missed it. Two more days until Finisterre and I couldn’t be more excited to see the ocean.

Paul and I also had this adorable little wiener dog walk with us for about an hour or so. Paul named him Ole’ Stinky because, well, he was old and smelled pretty awful. It was nice to have the company until we hit a busy road and he was literally stopping traffic because he was just cluelessly trotting along in the middle of the street. He also tried hopping in an old woman’s car and I had to apologize and get him out. I felt so responsible for this little dude because he was so set on sticking right by our side. I loved him but it was the most stressful hour of my life. Eventually he wondered off to some people sitting outside at a cafe. I was kind of relieved in the moment but I really do miss him now. He reminded me of Indy back in France. I really love all of these Camino animals I’ve run into along the way.

Back in Santiago for our little class reunion. It’s funny to me that I find this foreign place so comfortable after being in Portugal. It’s just nice to be back to speaking Spanish.

A couple days here, then time for another walk. I think I’m going to enjoy being a pilgrim again and going back to a life of simplicity, even if only for a few days. I really do miss it.

A little bummed that the Cathedral is under construction, but it is still lovely nonetheless.

Made it to Santiago…what a strange and rainy day it has been.

Just realized that I forgot to check in yesterday…whoops. Today was a very short walk from Arzúa to Pedrouzo. Tomorrow we will be in Santiago…that is so crazy to me. I felt like I have been here for a lifetime and now it is ending. It is very bittersweet.

This may sound weird, but I feel like there is always a very specific and tangible feel in the air when something is ending, especially in the mornings. I distinctly remember the last week of school every year, where I’d be waiting outside for the bus or walking to my car and the air was humid but not quite yet hot and it smelled like fresh grass and leaves. Spring mornings always correlate to an ending.

Last night, I caught myself saying “when I get back home…” and I was referring to the albergue. It just felt so natural to say that. Even though we have been in different places every night, I have learned how to make myself at home in every new place. I have grown so comfortable with adapting and constantly changing location.

I find myself mostly just a wondering what things will be like when I get back. How/if anything will change, and if I have changed. If I will miss this or if I will be happy to be home. There really is no way of knowing.

For now, I am going to enjoy this last night and do what I have been doing this whole time; hanging out with wonderful people and just feeling content to be here and to be alive.

Today was rather difficult for me. I am really struggling with the amount of people out here. I know that we are all pilgrims sharing this experience and that I am no better than anyone else, but I cannot help but feel bitter when I can’t brush my teeth in the mornings because of the crowd of women doing their makeup and when platinum blonde 60 year olds with bedazzled pink pants walk in to cafes and don’t even try to speak Spanish to the workers. I feel like such an asshole for my immediate judgements, especially compared to Paul who just respects them for coming out here and doing it in the first place. This really probably says a lot about my character, meaning that I have a lot more reflecting to do. Better to look inwards than to just stew at having no more chances of solitude and judge people based on their appearances. We will be in Santiago in 3 days, but there is still much work to be done.

Hanging out in Portomarín with some classmates. I’ve only gotten 4.5 hours of sleep in the last 48 hours and I have this chest cold thing that’s only getting worse, but I’m trying not to let that ruin these last few days.

I’m also (unsuccessfully) trying not to hardcore judge these pilgrims that just started and walk around wearing perfume and makeup. In order to receive a Compostela, you only technically had to have walked 100km straight through to Santiago. Therefore, yesterday was the popular starting point for those who don’t have time to walk the whole thing, want to do the bare minimum to receive a Compostela, etc. Everyone has their own reasons, I get it. It’s cool. More than anything I’m just frustrated with how busy the trail just got out of nowhere. I was really enjoying the solitude. Working on trying to change my attitude regarding that aspect.

We are so close to being done. What a strange feeling.

Sitting in front of the fireplace at a super nice albergue in Tricastela at the moment. These walks get prettier and prettier every day.

Paul and I decided to tackle the dreaded Dragonte route today (well, I decided and he hesitantly tagged along) instead of the regular Brierley route, and I think that on this day a part of me died a little bit. I was honestly just about as exhausted by the end of it as I was at the end of the 55k. This day was also extremely strange; a lot went wrong and it was a huge test of my patience and willpower, but it was also a really good day. Despite our exhaustion and hunger we were still laughing by the end of it, and we got to see some of the most beautiful views I have ever witnessed in my life. Nonetheless, I compiled a list of some of the things that went down out there so that you have an idea of how our day went.

•Waded across multiple painfully icy cold rivers with sharp rocks on the bottom
•Had to dig Pauls’ boots out of a muddy trench that was filled with spiders, resulting in tons of spiders crawling all over my feet and legs (Paul had to hike the rest of Dragonte in bright pink crocs)
•Move out of the way and hide from angry bulls blocking the path
•The sunburn on my arm began blistering
•Got stung by a bee on my neck and then on my shin
•Got my hand caught up in stinging nettle (holy sh*t this stuff is painful)
•Pulled thorns out of my body on approximately 10 different occasions
•Got thorns directly in my blistered sunburn
•Had swarms and swarms of bugs in my face and up my nose at all times
•Drank untreated water
•Walked up and down 3 and a half extremely steep mountains under the hot Spanish sun

I think that I needed a day like today though. It was a nice change of pace and a good reminder of how lucky I’ve been and how easy I’ve had it the rest of the time out here. Looking forward to a somewhat easier day tomorrow.

Vineyards, mountains and blue skies

The walk today was seriously gorgeous. I can’t get over how beautiful these mountains are; I wish pictures did this place justice.

Paul and I are in a cute little mountain village called Villafranca del Bierzo at the moment. I think this might be one of my favorite towns we have been to so far. It is surrounded by mountains and valleys and there are beautiful wildflowers and vineyards everywhere. I feel like this is the type of place you would see in a movie. It is wonderful.