Off to Calahorra! Hopefully I’ll post again later today if I can find wifi! The weather is much better today! Sunny and beautiful!
Author Archives: hoopfairy
Rachel – Thursday
Arrived in Alfaro to our first stay in a pilgrim-only albergue, free of cost. It was a lovely three bedroom home, and since we’re walking the Jacobean route we were the only people there! The peace and quiet was a blessing, although we played music and danced around, hooped and juggled for a while. After a long day of walking through a torrential downpour with high winds we were a little delirious. A long, warm bath perked us right up, and eased those sore muscles.
Rachel – Tuesday
We walked 35 kilometers. I’ll write more later, my fingers and brain and everything else hurt.
Rachel – Monday
Today was a tough day, physically and emotionally. Hunter and I began the day late, which was admittedly my fault, and passive aggressively bickered all the way out of Alagón. We walked in silence for a long time, allowing for a lot of emotions to set in and root deeply into our minds and souls. My sadness brought pain to my entire body, a sensation that is difficult to describe. I struggled to keep pace with Hunter, as he was fueled by frustration and I was being dampered by depression. After some time we sat together by the river and I cried as we explained our feelings and asked one another for forgiveness. I think he understands me better than he ever had before, as memories and emotions came flooding out of me like the Rio Ebro we watched flow by. As we began to wrap up our conversation a kind, gentle, older local drove up from the fork in the road and parked nearby. He came out to see the gorgeous view of the river and ask us about our pilgrimage. Hunter explained our environmental and spiritual interests as the man did not speak English and I was too distraught to comprehend his Spanish, but he insisted on speaking slower to help us both understand, which was very sweet. He told us about the history of the agricultural canal system and wished us a Buen Camino! We continued onward to ______ and stopped in a bar for a bocadillo (a sandwich served on a baguette) and directions. We decided that if the next town was more than 6 km away that we would try to find an albergue, as I had over-adjusted my mochila (backpack) and it was giving me terrible pains in my lower back. The woman working the bar told us that there was only one hostal in the pueblo (town) and it was rather expensive, so she walked Hunter outside and yelled up to the terrace above the bar. The owners of the pension upstairs Pilar and Constantino were surprised to see pilgrims so early in the year and welcomed us happily into their home. Their home was expansive and beautiful, with elaborate religious art on every wall and a separate, conjoined apartment for their son and daughter in law. They showed us out to the terrace and taught us all about the many plants and flowers that Pilar was growing, including tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, lavender, mint, ivy, olives and apples. After a long nap we unfortunately woke up after all of the supermarkets and restaurants had closed, but the miraculous Pilar came to the rescue and made us a hearty, warm meal of a vegetable purée, fried eggs and bread. I’ve been writing down instructions and recipes for cooking so that I can learn to make many of the healthy foods that have been served to us throughout this trip. For such a difficult day, I’d say we came out of it all better and happier than ever before. After all, a bad day for the ego is a good day for the soul, and my soul is singing as I drift off to sleep. Buenos noches!
Rachel – Easter Sunday
We’ve begun our walk along the Jacobean route! What an incredible day! We kept a steady pace, a satisfied stomach, and a positive attitude. It’s amazing how good food and conversation can completely distract you from sore feet or a long stretch on the road. We started in Zaragoza and walked North-northwest to Alagón, which was roughly 25-26 kilometers/15 miles, plus walking around town in search of an albergue. Because of Easter Sunday it was a hard find but after trekking in a large circle all the way around town and speaking with many helpful locals we found a lovely place! My big toe on the left foot already hurts but I believe it’s because I never realized that I don’t distribute my weight properly amongst my other toes. A good thing to be aware of! I’ve actively tried to readjust my walking patterns in order to avoid blisters. There are many beautiful churches here, we are considering going to an Easter service tonight. Pray for our feet!
Rachel – Saturday
We’ve moved onward to Zaragosa! A more extensive post will be added to my Friends-Spirit category. We’ve gone from Barcelona to Lleida to Zaragoza, where our walk will begin.
Rachel – Friday
We’ve arrived in Lleida due to significant confusion over the happenings of Semana Santo. We planned to go to Monserrat but the cable cars to take people up the mountain were closed for the weekend, so we continued onward! This town is lovely, and there were many festivities for Good Friday. The locals were very kind and welcoming once we explained our pilgrimage! The views of the mountains were magnificent.
Rachel – Monday
Preparing for this trip and spending time in Barcelona has been an excellent distraction to the exciting and terrifying fact that tomorrow is my 21st birthday.
Rachel – Saturday
In Barcelona still, falling in love with the city’s beautiful architecture more and more every day. The rich abundance of culture is amazing. We met a man at our hostel who walked the Camino twice, the French route and the route from Southern Spain, and told us “don’t let fear stop you, just keep walking.” I needed to hear that.
Barcelona!
We’ve arrived at the Lenin Hostal in Barcelona! The bus from the aiport was very easy and many of the people we’ve encountered have been incredibly friendly and helpful, probably because it’s such a big city. I’m excited to see what it will be like as a pilgrim in smaller towns!