A peaceful, often meditative day. Flat, good, well waymarked roads all the way to Melide, where the Primitivo ended. Thomas Melcher, an Austrian who has walked the Camino yearly since 2009, took us into the main church to get the final Primitivo sello. We waited through the end of a baptism mass and went into the sacristry for the stamp; a good end to that way.

I thought I would stay in Melide, but, having nothing else to do,  I walked on another 10 km, 30+ for the day,  to Ribadisio do Baixo where there is a beautiful, large albergue right on the river. Sam and I stayed here last year after we saw the big uphill into Azura and decided to call it a day here.  Stories now complemented by memories.

On having nothing else to do: Yesterday Sophie and I were deciding, around 2:30, whether or not to go on. She said, “I don’t have anything else to do.” A few minutes later, this usually somber person started laughing and laughing and eventually got out, “I don’t have anything else to do!” When she stopped laughing, she explained that at home there is her job and at home her husband who was severely disable by a car accident some 25 years ago. She always has so much to do, but here, “I don’t have anything else to do.” Another chuckle.  Later, just before dinner,  I saw her lounging back on a chair in the sun reading her Bible and smiling. Nothing else to do.

Nice calm walk from Triacastela to Samos, a beautiful town surrounding a monistary, where we had a long lunch. Then made our way to Sarria where we’re sleeping.

Portomarin

I found ALL the pilgrims. In case anyone was wondering where all the people were, they are here.

Great rest day in the big city! Never thought I’d say this but I enjoy the country side and small villages much more than the congestion of the Spanish cities.

Leon  has so much beautiful architecture. From the cathedral to the local bars and restaurants. I ate at a place where the sign said “American food.” 26 KM today, going too try for 42 tomorrow to catch up with friends. Love anyone who’s reading this.

buen camino

Portomarin

only made it a short way today because last night I was right above the champion of all snorers (and at this point I am very qualified to judge this) and barely slept. I have now napped and I’m feeling a whole lot better.

Karen, Marianthe and I arrived in Las Herrerias about an hour ago. Hunter is taking the Alto Dragonte route so I’ll be waiting for him here while the girls go onward toward O’Cebreiro. He may be exhausted and choose to stay here, I’m happy to take a break and patiently await his arrival as there are many animals for me to observe and write about in this town. I’ve been enjoying learning about the systems of animal agriculture, wildlife reservations/refuges and animal shelters in this country. It is often sad to realize the fate of many of these creatures but unfortunately that is the way that the world and the food chain operates. I constantly want to reach out and help the many feral cats and dogs, the cows and sheep and goats, motivating me to further my education into veterinary science. Humans may be a more “intellegent” species in certain regards than farm animals and such, but we all have an equal right to prosper on this earth. Habitat fragmentation due to farmland, roads and cities etc., has significantly affected the necessary migratory patterns of almost all species worldwide and I hope to learn how to work with this common problem as well. Times have changed and as populations grow dramatically it becomes unrealistic to expect unity between wild animals and “civilized” societies and towns, so if we intend to save many of these diminishing species we must learn to find more effective ways to protect them from hunting while maintaining their natural migratory patterns to the furthest possible extent. This is being exemplified in Seattle currently by the proposal to build a “land bridge” over the highway in order to promote migration for land mammals as well as create a protected landscape that offers alternative habitation opportunities. I learned less than a year ago that 1/3 of the existing species of birds from the last 100 years (which are an excellent global signifier of environmental health) are either extinct or endangered. Since traveling the Camino and mulling this concept over in my head repeatedly, I realize more and more every day how seriously the use of pesticides, habitat fragmentation and lack of biodiversity in many places could also be harming humans. I’ve firmly believed my entire life that animals worldwide should be treated more respectfully and responsibly, but now my dedication to studying them has showed significant evidence that humans aren’t treating one another respectfully and responsibly either. When or how can this cyclical pattern of self-harm and the harm of others end? Is it possible, or has the modern conception of self-importance (such as owning your own home, having your own biological children, owning your own business, etc) doomed us all? I’m not trying to be cynical, I’m genuinely curious as to how we can change on more than just a personal level. How can we teach one another to truly respect and love each other? I  will forever stand by the golden rule, always treat others as you wish to be treated. Others, in this context, include the earth, the plants, the people, the animals and everything else!

Some food for thought.

Buenos dias y Buen Camino!

In Portomarin.

Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

After 30k, we made our way across the Puente de Orbigo, lazing at the bridge top for 20 minutes admiring the view, and then wandered through hospital de Orbigo looking for lodging. We came to Albergue Verde, and were given the last beds available. We lay in the yard for a while, and an old Swiss man came into the office yelling that he has walked for 12 hours and it wasn’t right that they didn’t have a bed for him. For 5 minutes he yelled at the voluntario, refusing to leave. I offered the hospitaleros to give the man my bed, saying I had a mattress pad on which to sleep if they could provide me the space to lay it down. They gave me the fireplace-lit yoga studio with thanks. The meal was home cooked communal donativo vegan deliciousness of many courses, which was brought out with a sung prayer. We were told we were welcome to stay as long as we like, that this place is our home, and we are always welcome. This has been an incredible experience.