In Arzúa!

In Palas de Rei.

At 4pm I found myself sitting on a fence of stone next to a patch of wild flowers. Greg Brown played through my earbuds as I gazed at the landscape: freshly tilled soil from the tractor at work, and grass spread over plots of farmland, the tops of white buildings of Portomarín in the distance. It reminded me of drives home from work during the hot summer months in California.

“Help me help me help me make it through this funky day”

I peeled an orange with my freshly cut fingernails, and watched the small droplets of citrus spray out and catch a ride in the light wind. The warm sun had colored the backs of my hands a shade darker than the rest of my arm, covered by the sleeves of Ariel’s shirt that she had left with me.
I finished the orange and dug into my bag of mixed nuts, realizing I was hungrier than I thought I was. My chapped lips stung from the salt as I noticed shadows on the pavement from the birds of prey circling overhead. I watched one swoop down to the grass, its talons outstretched. It retreated into the air again, with nothing in its grasp.

Today felt strange walking through huge crowds of people on the trail. I saw buses unload groups of at least fifty people at a time. The cafes at small pueblos along the way were packed, the lines atrociously long- thankfully I had packed a lunch and snacks for the day. Though everyone seemed to be very happy and energetic and friendly, I couldn’t help but feel frustrated and annoyed for most of the day. My time for peaceful solitude on the trail has passed. I used to be alone for miles without seeing other pilgrims, and now there is barely elbow room. We are like a trail of ants filed one after the other. I can only see this increasing as we get closer and closer to Santiago.

But I realized, sitting there on the rock today, that being frustrated is ultimately pointless, and being attached to something that once was and no longer is is the root of my suffering. I came to the Camino to learn to let go, to learn to become more open hearted, and to cultivate rainbows. Today I found myself racing for the first time- not against other people, but against myself and my own ego. I wasn’t in the flow, and I wasn’t in harmony with myself, or with my body. I was fighting when I needed to surrender.

It is honestly incredible that so many people are here, walking the Camino, regardless of their reasons for being here or where they started. What I keep forgetting to remember, something that continues to limit me from communion, is that we are all one and the same. Any degree of separation between me and another pilgrim is a complete fabrication of the ego. We are all one family here.

I had similar feelings of frustration start to well up on my way into Sarria, until I met Jan. Funny enough, she’s from San Francisco, and her daughter attended Evergreen! What a small and funny world this is. She had recently retired from her rewarding and soul filling career as a language and reading teacher for young children, and had such a pleasant and kind energy. Talking to her was like a breath of fresh air. Her compassionate spirit was truly an inspiration for me to keep opening up to others with courage and kindness.

I am thankful for today, though it was definitely one of the more challenging days. Santiago lies just four days ahead, but I feel as though it will be just a signpost. The journey continues on from there- there is no true destination, only precious, beautiful, crazy moments.

Taking a rest day in Sarria.

Happiness…

Happiness is finding a simple green painted fence lined with morning glories that reminds you of your mother and far off fairy lands

Happiness is meeting a person who changes the course of your day with their upbeat attitude and kind energy, leaving you feel cleansed and refreshed.

Happiness is letting go and saying goodbye to someone you love and cherish, but have faith in seeing them again.

Rose the yogi photographer

Happiness is reuniting with old friends and sharing new stories, giggles, and yummy almond cake.

Reunited with Jordi and Miguel, who have decided to walk the last 100k with us to Santiago!

Finally, happiness is finding a colorful scarf because life is too short to not be a rainbow.

xoxoxo

This afternoon I went for a walk around the small town of Triacastela, and sat down on a path under the setting sun. I played with the pebbles and dirt beneath my feet, feeling the sun’s warmth play upon my hair and cheeks. I felt the coarse sand and grass against my fingertips as I drew words and pictures. I sat there for several minutes, staring at the ground, then at my feet. I stretched out my legs and reached for my toes, bowing further towards the earth.

I sat up, rose to my feet, and started slowly back down the track, only to stop momentarily against a fence as I heard the slow jingle of cow bells approaching. Three dairy cows sauntered towards me, swinging their short horns from side to side as they walked. They paused in their path to look at me. I stared back. We exchanged snorts of sorts before they continued on. Their utters hung heavy and swung in rhythm with their strong hips and tails.

I watched them pass, and headed back to my home for the night: a top bunk, my sleeping bag, a warm sweater, and the stillness of the mountains.

Tomorrow I will follow the path of that setting sun, forever heading west.

In the misty mountains

Staying at a lovely vegetarian albergue tonight in Pieros called El Serbal y La Luna. Complete with a beautiful meditation/yoga/massage room, bunk beds that look like they belong in Tarzan’s treehouse, and amazing, nourishing homemade meals. No wifi though- a lovely man has gifted me his wifi from his iPad, along with his family granola recipe. In return, I’ve given him some magnesium to help him sleep. Camino magic, Camino love.

xoxoxo

Surrounded by the smell of tiger balm, the warmth of a cozy second hand wool sweater from a free box, the sound of sporadic giggles, music coming from someone’s earbuds, and the early onset of tonight’s snoring ballad.

Been having some difficulty connecting my phone to wifi and have had to result to using my data….will have to fix it to blog more tomorrow.

Grateful for all that I have and all that I have left behind.

xoxoxo